And Back To Vancouver

Vancouver, Here We Come Again …. Up early the next morning, an enjoyable breakfast with the other guests at the B&B, some more sightseeing advice from Clara and we were off on our trek towards Vancouver.  This is an 850 kms journey without our side trips so we expect to cover at least 1000 km over the next three days.   Overnight it had snowed high up on the peaks of the mountains and in every direction you looked, it was a postcard.  Our first stop was Johnston Canyon and a 3 km walk to the falls. This is also a “must” visit.  Much of the walkway is a cantilever track off the edge of the canyon with magnificent views around every corner and an impressive waterfall complete with a tunnel to a viewing platform.

The spectacular Johnston Falls
The spectacular Johnston Falls
Cantilever walkway leading to the Johnston Falls
Cantilever walkway leading to the Johnston Falls

Snowing Again …. We then drove to Moraine Lake, a glacial fed lake 15 km outside the village of Lake Louise situated in “The Valley of the Ten Peaks”. It is 1885 meters above sea level and a “must see” according to Clara.  As we drove the 15 km into the lake it started to snow, and on entering the carpark it became quite heavy.  We expected to see just another lake but what we did see took our breath away. It was a small lake with sharp cliffs on three sides all covered in snow from the recent snowfalls. We climbed what is called “The Rock Pile” and obtained great views of the lake and the surrounding snow covered mountains.  According to the travel brochures this is the most photographed view in all of Canada. It was then on to Lake Louise, a walk around the lake and then we enjoyed a nice lunch in the famous Fairmont Lake Louise Hotel.  A great start on our trek towards Vancouver.

The spectacular Moraine Lake near Lake Louise
The spectacular Moraine Lake near Lake Louise
The Rock Pile at Lake Moraine. A natural feature.
The Rock Pile at Lake Moraine. A natural feature.
The beautiful Lake Louise
The beautiful Lake Louise
Fairmont Hotel at Lake Louise
Fairmont Hotel at Lake Louise

What Are Spiral Tunnels …. Our next stop was the railway spiral tunnels on the Trans Canada Highway.  There are two spiral tunnels that are used to change the elevation of the trains as they come out of the Rocky Mountains into the valley below.  We were lucky enough to see a massive freight train going through the tunnels and it was so long that we witnessed the train coming out of the second tunnel and the rear of the train yet to go into the first tunnel.  Very impressive.   We then continued our journey through Rogers Pass to Revelstoke and our overnight accomodation.

Spiral tunnels out of the Rockies
Spiral tunnels out of the Rockies

Lakes And Salmon Running …. Next morning we set out on our way to Salmon Arm in the middle of the large area known as the Shuswap and the home of the great lakes popular for houseboating, golf and skiing.  We took a side trip to the Roderick Haig-Brown National Park on the Adams River to once again witness the salmon run and the salmon spawning. The salmon return after swimming 400 km from the Pacific Ocean to spawn and then die.

A salmon spawning.  She swam 400 km from the Pacific Ocean where she lived for 3 years
A salmon spawning. She swam 400 km from the Pacific Ocean where she lived for 3 years

A Dramatic Change In Scenery And Weather ….  Our journey then continued onto Kamloops, a town with a population of approximately 1 million people.  What was amazing is the dramatic change in scenery from snow capped mountains to almost desert like conditions around Kamloops. For several miles before the town there are dramatic cliffs in an area called Turtle Valley. After a brief stop in Kamloops for afternoon tea we made our way to Merritt through the Nicola Valley for our second night on the road.  In this 80 kilometer stretch the weather must have changed at least 6 times from bright sunshine in Kamloops, to rain, to sleet, back to rain, overcast and then bright sunshine again as we drove into Merritt. We stopped at the historic Coldwater Hotel for a beer and then went seeking out a bed for the night.

Turtle Valley driving into Kamloops.  Very dry countryside.
Turtle Valley driving into Kamloops. Very dry countryside.

Brides And Bridges …. After an overnight stay in Merritt we headed to Vancouver which was 268 kms on the Trans Canada Highway. Along the way we had a short stop for coffee and a 15 minute walk up a steep track to see the Bridal Veil falls which drop 122 metres in a veil like pattern.  It was then straight ahead to Vancouver and  across the Port Mann Bridge. It is one of the largest and longest bridges in Canada and impressive with its modern architecture

Bridal Veil Falls near Rosedale on the Trans Canada Highway.
Bridal Veil Falls near Rosedale on the Trans Canada Highway.
The Port Mann Bridge in Vancouver. A toll bridge costing $3 per trip for a car.
The Port Mann Bridge in Vancouver. A toll bridge costing $3 per trip for a car.

We are In Suspense ….  Capilano Suspension Bridge Park was our destination situated in North Vancouver. We thought $36 each just to see a bridge was a bit expensive but what the heck, we were on holidays. What we didn’t expect to see was a magnificent rain forest with 1000 year old trees, a massive canyon with a river below and much more. The suspension bridge is 220 metres long hovering above the Capilano Canyon and the bridge sways and wobbles quite dramatically as people walk across. On the opposite side of the Canyon the rain forest has a series of boardwalks and suspended treetop walks allowing you to explore the rain forest without environmental impact. Very impressive. Back across the suspension bridge you have the “Cliff Walk”, a 50 cm wide platform, about 300 metres long that is cantilevered off the edge of the cliff face 100 metres above the canyon floor. A number of sections of the walk have clear glass floors and you feel you are suspended in mid air above the canyon. Finally the compulsory gift shop and a couple of well presented food stalls. We spent 2 hours meandering around and thoroughly enjoyed our time there.  $36 per head well spent.

The Capilano Suspension Bridge.  $36 a trip and you have to walk.
The Capilano Suspension Bridge. $36 a trip and you have to walk.
The cantilevered Cliff Walk at Capilano Suspension Bridge facility.
The cantilevered Cliff Walk at Capilano Suspension Bridge facility.

Our Final Day ….  We woke on our final day in Vancouver to cold and wet weather and decided to spend some time riding the Aquabus ferries that travel around False Creek and English Bay area of Vancouver.  These cute little ferries only hold about 16 people and travel to 8 points around the inner harbour area.  We lashed out and purchased a day ticket for $10.00 per person and went to Granville Island for a walk around the Public Market and other shops, back on the ferry to the Science Works Museum, then walked around to another ferry stop and picked up the ferry to take us to the Maritime Museum.  It enabled us to see Vancouver from the water, a different perspective.

Cute little Aquabus ferries that transport you round the inner harbour in Vancouver
Cute little Aquabus ferries that transport you round the inner harbour in Vancouver
Liz meets a new friend at Science Works
Liz meets a new friend at Science Works
An old square rigger at the Wooden Boat Club at the Maritime Museum ferry stop
An old square rigger at the Wooden Boat Club at the Maritime Museum ferry stop
Sunset from our hotel room on our last full day in Vancouver
Sunset from our hotel room on our last full day in Vancouver

A Disaster But Not Of Our Making ….   We were all set for our trip back to Australia.  Bags packed, to the airport early, checked in with Alaska Airlines, had a couple of nice glasses of wine and we were all set for the 24 hour trip back to Australia, UNTIL ... we looked up at the flight departure board and found the flight was an hour and thirty five minutes late.  Oh well.  We can still make the LA to Melbourne flight OK so not to worry.  30 minutes later the flight was delayed another 30 minutes and then another 20 minutes. Finally we boarded the plane 2 3/4 hours late and pushed back for our flight to LA.  And then the plane went back to the gate, ground staff, the Captain and security came on the plane and escorted two Australians either drunk or on drugs  off the plane.  We finally arrived in LA at 1:00 AM.

Foreshore at Manhattan Beach in Los Angeles
Foreshore at Manhattan Beach in Los Angeles

A Free Day In LA ….    We missed our connection so Alaska Airlines put us up in the Marriot LAX and gave us meal vouchers for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  They also transfered us from Qantas to Virgin Australia as there were no seats available on Qantas for the next day.  We had a very pleasant day in LA.  We went to Manhattan Beach and to the Manhattan Village Shopping Centre, had a nice meal in the Marriot and we are now on our way to Australia on Virgin Australia Business class.

Historic pier at Manhattan Beach
Historic pier at Manhattan Beach
Enjoying the sunshine at Manhattan Beach in LA
Enjoying the sunshine at Manhattan Beach in LA

The end of a fabulous holiday.

And On To Banff

Amazing Scenery With A Touch Of Ice ….
The 280km Icefields Parkway is described as one of the worlds most spectacular highways and it proved to be correct.  After leaving the Jasper Tramcar we thought it would be hard to beat until we commenced our journey to Banff.  Our first stop was the Athabasca Falls, 30 km from Jasper and only a kilometre off the main road.  The falls thunder down into a narrow canyon creating a fine mist in the air.  Even at the end of summer there is still a massive amount of water going down the falls as it is mainly driven by glacier melt.

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Athabasca Falls

Onto The Glacier ….
Our next stop was the Columbia Icefields about 103 km from Jasper.  There is a very impressive Icefields Centre where you depart for the excursion onto the Athabasca glacier.  We booked on the 1 1/2 hour trip and after a short wait were on the bus heading for the staging point for the 6 wheel drive ice buses to take us onto the glacier.  The trip from the staging point although only short, was exciting, as this gigantic bus holding 56 people has to go down an incredibly steep incline to access the glacier.  Once onto the ice there is about a 1 km trip to the heart of the galcier.  The temperature drop from the Icefields Center to the glacier must have been at least 10 oC and the 20 minutes we spent on the glacier was enough before the chill was into the bones.

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Rob & Liz on the Athabasca Glacier
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The massive 6 wheel drive buses that carry 56 people

And On To Banff …
After an exciting glacier experience we drove through the Wilcox Pass to Big Bend just south of the Columbia Icefields.  Here you get magnificent views of the valley below and the Rocky Mountains on either side with their snow capped peaks.  What is amazing is that the entire 280 km journey is in National Parks, hence the name for the road, Icefields Parkway.  We finally arrived at our B&B about 6:30 PM and met our host Clara, a delightful lady, who welcomed us into her magnificent home and showed us our accomodation for the next 3 days.  Clara was also a wealth of knowledge in what to see in and around Banff.

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Icefields Parkway

A Tourist Town ….
Banff, right from its early origins, was built as a tourist town to increase the number of passengers on the newly constructed Trans Canada railway around 1885.  It is obviously a very wealthy town with nice buildings in alpine styling, great facilities, very nice houses and hotels and of course, the magnificent Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel.

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Our B&B in Banff

A Day With Everything ….
Whilst having dinner on our first night in Banff we found out that the New York Rangers Ice Hockey team were in town to practice and so the next morning down to the Recreation Centre to see the Rangers.  Our next stop was the Mt Norquay Ski Fields only a 10 minute drive from Banff.  From there to the Banff Gondola and on a magnificent sunny day we went to the top of Mt Sulphur and took the walk up at least 1000 steps to the very peak.  A few days earlier snow had fallen so here we were surrounded by snow but in warm bright sunshine.  You have a 360 degree view over Banff and the Rocky Mountains and this is a must do if visiting Banff.

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New York Rangers practising in Banff
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The peak at Mt Sulphur after our Gondola ride
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A recent snowfall on the peak of Mt Sulphur

A Wildlife Moment ….
After spending 2 hours on the mountain we took the Gondola back to the car park and  drove to the Banff Springs Golf Club.  It is a very nice course and club house with a magnificent backdrop of the Rockies.  On our drive out of the club we spotted Elk just wandering on the edge of the course and of course stopped to take photos. On the way home yet another Elk only 200 metres from our B&B. It caused a major traffic jam with people stopping to take photos.

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Banff Springs Golf Club with the Rockies as a backdrop
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An Elk near our B&B

Another Lake Cruise ….
Our next day we took a Japanese girl staying at the B & B with us to Lake Minnewanka.  We walked through the woods along the edge of the lake and then we took the lake cruise.  Following our lake cruise we went to see the Hoodoos, tall needles of sedimentary rock towering out of the hillside.  We then drove around Tunnel Mountain, went to Surprise Corner to get magnificent views of Banff Springs Hotel, then on to the Cave And Basin National Historic Site which contained thermal pools once open to the public but now due to the endangered Banff Springs black snail, the pool was closed and not available for public bathing. The locals comment; “bloody snails”.  We finally ended up in Banff downtown for a walk around the shops and a drink and early dinner in an Irish Pub.

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A Chipmunk posing for photos at Lake Minnewanka
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The Hoodoos
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The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel
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The thermal pool at the Cave & Basin historic site in Banff
Inside the Cave & Basin National Historic site. Once A thermal swimming pool.
Inside the Cave & Basin National Historic site. Once A thermal swimming pool.

 

4 Days, 4 Modes Of Transport – Ferry, Train, Tramcar & Car

And On To Meet The Prince ….
We arrived in Prince Rupert at 6:00 am after a very comfortable journey on the Alaska Marine Highway ferry service.  Our cabin was complete with shower and toilet and bunks with Liz taking the top bunk as she is the youngest!  After a short taxi ride to our hotel we checked in, unpacked, had some breakfast and were ready for a day exploring Prince Rupert.  Prince Rupert has some nice buildings and an interesting wharf area with a number of shops and restaurants including Dolly’s that is known for its delicious seafood, but unless you travel further afield 1 day is more than enough in Prince Rupert.

Arriving into Prince Rupert at 6:00 AM
Arriving into Prince Rupert at 6:00 AM
Sunken Gardens behind court house in Prince Rupert.
Sunken Gardens behind court house in Prince Rupert.
B&B on the wharf at Cow Bay in Prince Rupert.
B&B on the wharf at Cow Bay in Prince Rupert.

Time To Do A Bit Of Training ….
Up at 6:00 am the next morning for our 8:00 am departure on the Skeena train, a 2 day 1165 km journey from Prince Rupert to Jasper.  First class is a luxury domed carriage with comfortable recliner seating and a full meal service complete with wine and other beverages.  We were extremely lucky that in first class there were only 12 people in our carriage that could hold 72 people so we were able to freely move around to look at the views, take pictures and talk to the other passengers.

Our carriage on the Skeena train.
Our carriage on the Skeena train.
The general store at one of the small towns en-route.  Population 11.  We stopped here to drop off the mail
The general store at Willow River. Population 11. We stopped here to drop off the mail

Continually Changing Scenery ….
The first stage of the journey from Prince Rupert to Prince George follows the Skeena River for nearly 100 km and the scenery varies from river views to snow capped mountains, glaciers and gorges along with a few small towns and villages with an occasional stop being made to drop off the occasional passenger or a mail drop. You finally reach a plateau and there is a change in scenery to farms , sawmills, small villages and magnificent lakes.  This leg of the journey covers nearly 765 km and takes over 12 hours so you can see it is by no means a high speed train but very relaxing and a visual feast.

One of the massive sawmills on the route.
One of the massive sawmills on the route.

Our Conductor Is A Comedian ….
Our conductor on the trip, Geoff, was a real character and whenever there was a quiet moment he would come and tell a joke, tell an amusing story, or explain about what we would see on each leg of the journey.  We learnt all about cattle and now know there are 5 basic types.  If the cattle were standing up in the paddock they are “regular beef”, if they are sitting on the ground then they are “ground beef”, if they are leaning on the fence then they are “lean beef”, if they try to jump the fence and get impaled on a stake, you guessed it, then they are “beef steak” and finally if they get hit by the train then they are “minced meat”.   The jokes just kept coming and at one stage Liz was crying from laughing so much.

Our entertaining conductor, Geoff, admiring the scenery.
Our entertaining conductor, Geoff, admiring the scenery.

We Meet Another Prince ….
After an overnight stop in Prince George we were off on the second stage of our train journey to Jasper. This leg of 400 km took us through the Caribou Mountains following the Fraser River and then into the Rocky Mountains to our final destination, Jasper.  The rail line from Prince Rupert to Jasper is only a single track with frequent sidings and a number of times we had to either pull into a siding or passed a goods train at one of the sidings.  The goods trains are massive, one we counted had 160 carriages, many of them stacked 2 high with 40 foot containers.

Passing one of the massive goods trains heading to Prince Rupert.
Passing one of the massive goods trains heading to Prince Rupert.
Mt Robson on an almost clear day.
Mt Robson on an almost clear day.

And On Into Jasper ….

The climb up into Jasper was a real highlight on a day of good weather so we had a great view of Mount Robson and Moose Lake.   The jokes from our conductor Geoff kept coming claiming that Moose Lake is where the moose do their scuba diving training and “what do you call a reindeer who cant see…no idea”.  We reached our highest elevation of 3700 ft at Yellowhead Lake which is a continental divide meaning that part of the lake flows east and part flows west.  The lake is fed by snow and glaciers melting and rain.

 

We Explore Jasper ….
A buffet dinner was served an hour out of Jasper complete with wine and desert with a backdrop of the magnificent snow and ice covered Rocky Mountains.  Another highlight to add to the growing list.  We checked into our hotel in Jasper and went exploring the town.  It has some beautiful buildings and the town planning is obviously tightly controlled to provide a real alpine feel.  It is the first real tourist town we have struck since we started our holiday nearly 4 weeks ago and as a result it is full of gift shops and restaurants as well as a wide range of International tourists.  We are now almost in the summer off season and it was still busy.

Township of Jasper.
Township of Jasper.
Gift shops galore in Jasper.
Gift shops galore in Jasper.
The magnificent backdrop to the town of Jasper, the Rocky Mountains.
The magnificent backdrop to the town of Jasper, the Rocky Mountains.

From A Train To A Tramway ….
After a good nights sleep, breakfast and an early morning walk around Jasper when all the tourist coaches were leaving for the day, we picked up our rental car for the next seven days, obtained our 2 day Canada parks pass and headed off to the Jasper Tramway cable car.   This cable tramway rises from an elevation of 1300 meters up to 2280 meters.  You can then take the hiking trails to the summit for a 360 degree view of the Rocky Mountains.  We were extremely lucky to take this ride on a clear day to see magnificent views of Mount Robson, Jasper and the surrounding mountains.  Mount Robson is only visible on average, 3 days per month, the rest of the time hidden by cloud.  After an hour on the mountain we returned to our car to set off on the next leg of our holiday.

Looking down on Jasper from the tramcar station.
Looking down on Jasper from the tramcar station.
Liz at the summit of the Jasper Tramcar cable car.
Liz at the summit of the Jasper Tramcar cable car.