Ireland
  Friday May 14 to Monday May 24, 2010

Car Ferry to Passage East

We're In Irrrrelund ....    After departing the ferry at Rosslare Harbour, we took a quick trip in to Wexford before coming back to Rosslare Harbour and our very comfortable Old Courthouse B&B run by Mary No 1.  The next morning after an Irish Breakfast including black and white pudding, we headed south following the coast and visiting the towns of Kilmore Quay, Thatched cottages at Dunmore Eastthen across the estuary on the car ferry (Euro8.00 one way) at Arthurstown to the small harbour town of Passage East.  Despite the blustery wind blowing, we managed to have a morning tea break here before continuing on to Dunmore East on the Waterford Estuary.   Dunmore East is a pretty little village with whitewashed cottages and thatched roofs. It was then on to Dungarvan for lunch before heading north to our two night stay at Cashel.   The weather was brilliant with sunny skies and a coolish wind blowing and thankfully no rain.   




Thornbrook House B&B
Rocking In Cashel ....
   Our 2 night stay in Cashel in County Tipperary was in a B&B called Thornbrook House run by Mary No 2 who had been running B&B's for 30 years.  Her hospitality, providing outstanding facilities and her great Irish Breakfasts in a pleasant homely environment was hard to beat, and we would thoroughly recommend this B & B to anyone visiting Cashel. The ancient town of Cashel and its surrounding countryside is dominated by the spectacular Rock of CashelRock of Cashel with history documented back to the 4th Century.   It is a collection of early Christian and medieval buildings including the 13th century Gothic Cathedral, 12th century round tower and the very early Romanesque Cormac's Chapel perched on a dramatic outcrop of limestone rock.  A well presented audio video was shown explaining the stirring events of Irish history that took place here.  We visited many of the small towns in the area surrounding Cashel, including Holycross which has a beautiful old abbey where a wedding was taking place, and Golden and the hard to find ruins of Athassel Abbey built in 1176 and completed in 1204.    



Waterville on The Ring of KerryThe Three Rings ....   From Cashel we drove to Killarney in the County of Kerry.  Killarney is a large town and a base used by tourists to explore the region, particularly the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula.  The town itself is large with brightly painted Irish Pubs, gift shops and the usual array of colourful shops selling Irish merchandise. Our B&B stop was Hazelbrook Heights at Aghadoe, a suburb of Killarney, for three nights.  This was a pleasant self catering B&B run by Hazel and her husband Gerard, who is an Irish singer and plays in some of the Killarney pubs as well as a full time job in the police force.  On our arrival we decided to drive the Ring of Kerry while the weather was good. It was an amazing drive of approximately 150 kms for the entire loop.   Ring of KerryWe commenced the drive with a visit to the Gap of Dunloe where pony and carts take visitors into the Gap for an hour's ride.   We continued on visiting small towns along the way until we reached Portmagee, a small fishing village known for its fishing, smuggling and ship wrecks.  From this point we drove up and through the Coomanaspig Pass where the landscape becomes rugged and more spectacular.  The drive through the mountains provides outstanding views of the coastline and the massive Kenmare River.  We were surprised with the absence of tourist buses and cars on the Ring of Kerry.  We had been told that you had to travel anti clockwise and that it would be a slow trip because of the traffic, but it seemed at times that we were the only ones on the road and it enabled us to stop and take photos and admire the views.  Apparently, the economy has been hit hard in Ireland and the tourists numbers are down from previous years. We passed through the towns of Waterville, overlooking Ballinskelligs Bay and onto Kenmare which is a most picturesque town before heading back to Killarney.  The road from Kenmare to Killarney is really beautiful with spectacular scenery.  You pass through Molls Gap and onto Ladies View where we stopped for a drink and sat and admired the view towards Lough Leane before returning to our B&B.


Gerard entertaining us

Singing By Night ....  It had been a long day but then we heard that Gerard, our B&B host, was playing and singing Irish ballads at the local golf club so after a meal we set off to have a great night.  Gerard entertained for a while then anyone that felt like singing could do so. Once the Irish have a couple of drinks, they will get up and sing and everyone joins in. By the end of the night, and once Gerard had finished singing, a group of Irish golfers sang in tune and entertained for the rest of the evening.




Dingle

Quaint Dingle, The Second Ring ....   You can be lucky or unlucky with the weather in Ireland.  We woke to a little rain but we were off to Dingle for the day and to catch up with Liz's sister-in-law's sister, Jill who is now living in Dingle and loving it.  Jan, Jill & Liz at DingleDingle is a really pretty town about 65 kms from Killarney located on the Dingle Peninsula and is well worth a visit.  It is a fishing port with lots of colourful pubs, and quaint shop fronts all along the streets.  After coffee and a catch up with Jilll, we toured out onto the peninsula to Slea Head which looks out towards the Blaskett Islands.  A most interesting area of the Dingle Peninsula were the prehistoric Beehive Huts which were built in 2000BC.  These simple circular huts are known as "clochans"  and are scatted along the coastline just west of Dingle.   Beehive HutsAgain the views of cliffs and sloping hills down into the ocean make it a great photographers paradise. We were unable to cross the Connor Pass as it was closed for road works due to the very bad winter experienced this year.  Apparently the pass was closed for 6 weeks due to inclement weather.










Eyeries - Ring of BearaWaterfalls on the Healy PassThe Third Ring ....   We had been told to travel the Beare Peninsula if possible.  This peninsula is not as well known as the Ring of Kerry but of the two peninsulas, we found this one to be more interesting. The day was not the best to be travelling, as we again woke to some rain, but we all agreed that it just changed the mood of the peninsula and we saw a different aspect. 

Again we passed through small Irish villages with Eyeries being a favourite, as all the small houses lining the narrow street were painted different colours.  The most fantastic part of this drive was through the 1081ft  Healy Pass which divides the County of Kerry from the County of Cork.  As it had been raining overnight and during the day, the water was cascading down the very steep mountain sides, forming torrents of water through the valleys.  We climbed and climbed up into the mountain range and then descended down into the valleys.  This was one of the highlights of our trip.  On the way home, it was time for a nice cup of tea at Molly Gallivan's known for her illicit making of "porteen" potato Irish Whiskey whilst raising a family back in those early days.


Shannon FerryOh What A Coastline ....  It was then time to leave Killarney and continue heading north towards the Cliffs of Moher and O'Brien's Tower.  This was to be our next stop for two nights.  We drove first up through Abbeyfeale in County Limerick to the Mouth of the Shannon River where we caught a ferry across to Killimer.  The ferry runs every 30 mins and takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the other side of the Shannon River and the port of Kilrush.

Cliffs of Kilkee



From here it was a quick visit to the tourist information centre and then onto the drive along the Cliffs of Kilkee in County Clare and again fantastic views down into the Atlantic Ocean.  This drive is not well known by tourists and is very accessible so we were on our own and thoroughly enjoyed it.
 Doonbeg Golf Club




A must stop was the Doonbeg Golf Club.  This is a magnificent links style golf course set in sand dunes right on the Atlantic Ocean.  And what a club house.  Unfortunately we did not play the course but it gave us a taste for golf when we return to Australia.




Daniel & Rob
The World Cup, Not Quite ....
  Our next stop was the Atlantic Views B&B situated 1 mile from the Cliffs of Moher.  We stayed for 2 nights and were entertained by Mary No 3 and their 8 yr old ginger headed son Daniel who just loved his soccer. We counted 8 soccer balls in the front garden in various states of condition.  He proudly advised us that he doesn't like school and all he want's to do is play soccer for MU (Manchester United).  Rob and Ian took him on at a game of soccer in the front garden but his skills where just a little too good for us and he claimed victory.




Cliffs of Moher
Magnificent ....
   The Cliffs of Moher rise 214 metres from the Atlantic Ocean at their highest point and extend for approximately 10 kms.  We walked the pathways at the very well presented tourist centre where you can look at the cliffs from a number of different viewing points as well as climbing O'Briens Tower which stands on the highest point on the cliffs. 

Cliffs of Moher





We then took a ferry ride from Doolin right up close to the cliffs to gain a different perspective of this amazing natural wonder.  We were able to see the variety of Irish birdlife nesting in the cliffs.  It was well worth paying the Euro 10 for the tour on a perfect summer day with a  temperature of 20 degrees and also be entertained by one of the crew with some Irish jokes and his life story thrown in.  The Cliffs of Moher are a must see on any trip to Ireland.  The weather was warming up for the next few days and the Irish were thoroughly enjoying the sunshine.


Dinner at O'Connor's Pub

Irish Music In An Irish Pub ....    Doolin was a 15 minute drive from our B&B.    Again it's a small Irish village with a number of Irish pubs and a place to listen to Irish music being played most evenings.  O'Connor's Pub was our pub for dinner that night and we enjoyed the Irish music along with many other tourists.




Poulnabrone Portal Tomb in The BurrenAn Ancient Tomb ....  We had read about The Burren (meaning "rock") which is 300 square km area just north of the Cliffs of Moher, so we had a day trip to see this amazing area of cracked pavement slabs of limestone, huge boulders and distorted strata which was caused by clean topsoil being scraped by glaciers some 15,000 years ago.  It is also the home to over 1100 species of plants and was a well settled region in the Stone and Bronze Ages.  The area has over 70 ancient tombs with one of the most famous being the 4500 year old Poulnabrone Portal Tomb in the shape of a stone flying-machine ready for takeoff.  There are ancient ruins of fort walls in this most desolate area of Ireland.  Small villages are situated in the area for the local people and the tourists.  It was a most interesting area of Ireland.



Yeats Tower
And On To Dublin ....
  It was time to head for Dublin for two nights so we said our goodbyes and headed towards Mullingar for the night and a B&B which we found that afternoon.  A detour on the way for morning tea was to Thoor Ballylee - Yeats Tower.   Thoor Ballylee is a 16th-century castellated tower house near Gort.  It was owned by the poet W B Yeats from 1915 and was his matrimonial home from 1917. The Yeats had extensive alterations made to the building, which is now a museum containing Yeats memorabilia.   Novara House run by Margaret and Ritchie was comfortable and just a short walk to the town  for dinner that night.  It was then onto Dublin arriving on Saturday morning and Andorra House which was about 5 km from the centre of Dublin and on a bus line which stopped right outside the front door.  It was a busy time in Dublin as it was a weekend and the weather was warm and sunny.   All Irish were either in the city soaking up the sun in the streets and the Irish pubs and definitely having fun, or as we were told, they were having thousands of BBQ's celebrating the warm weather.


Guinness Storehouse ....
First Stop, Guinness ....
  We decided to catch the Hop on-Hop off Dublin Bus which takes you around all the major tourist attractions, as it was easier on the legs and there was a running humourous commentary along the way. Liz enjoying a pint of Guinness The tickets are valid for 24 hours so well worth it to get around Dublin.  The first and most important stop was the Guinness Brewery established in 1759 by Arthur Guinness who signed a lease for a period 9,000 years in 1759 at just £45 per year with no inflation clause.  Guinness has just celebrated its 250 years of Guinness history.  In a restored 1904 building we learnt all about this world famous stout.  Did you know that around the world today there are over 10 million glasses of Guinness produced and drank every day.  At the end of the tour we sat down in the Gravity Bar on the 8th floor which has a 360 degree view over Dublin and enjoyed a pint of Guinness.



O'Connor St and the Spire of DublinTrinity College Long Room Library

Dublin Sightseeing ....   O'Connell Street is the widest and premier street in Dublin and is lined in the middle with statues of Irish heroes and the Spire of Dublin.  It is also the hub of the bustling shopping precinct.  A short walk to Trinity College which is also a must see.  Built in 1592 and the home of Ireland's most treasured possessions, the 9th century "Book of Kells".  The "Book of Kells" dates back over 1000 years and were written in Latin by scribes and artists who spread the message of the life of Christ in gospel books.  From this exhibition you moved into the Trinity College Library called The Long Room which is 65 metres in length and houses around 200,000 of the Library's oldest books on two levels.




The Temple Bar



Now Time For A Drink ....   The Temple Bar area is the place for live Irish music until well into the early hours of the morning.  Liz with her new friends from BrazilTourists and the Irish flock to this area where there is a pub or restaurant on every corner and every second building.  We visited the "The Temple Bar" itself named after Sir William Temple 1555 - 1627 who was the founder of this pub and so the whole area became known as theTemple Bar district.  We enjoyed a drink here and returned again the next day for lunch as we had enjoyed it so much.  Molly MaloneGrafton Street which is another shopping precinct has the statue of Molly Malone which commemorates the heroine of the traditional ballad, who sold cockles and mussels from her wheelbarrow and is a favourite ballad sung in the pubs around Ireland.






Jack O'Riley's Pub in Dublin

Back On The Ferry To The UK ....
   Of course, in Dublin there is the Christ Church Cathedral and St Patrick's Cathedral both of which were built in the early 1100's and stand out amongst a number of churches in Dublin.  Stena Lines Ferry to HolyheadAfter two full days in Dublin and our last night at Jack O'Reilly's Pub for dinner, we packed our bags ready for our early morning departure.We headed to the Dublin waterfront and caught the Stena Line ferry back to Holyhead.  It was a 3 1/2 hr trip across the Irish Sea with smooth sailing.  It was a nice relaxing time to sit back in the first class lounge before arriving in Holyhead in Wales.
 




And Now The Funny Bit ....  Signs we saw in our travels:-Dangerous Cliff Edge

Two Different Speed Restrictions















Open All Day SundayEnd Of Pier








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