A Week In Brecon Beacons, Wales

We left Looe on Saturday morning for the 210 mile (336 km) drive to Brecon in Wales. As we had plenty of time we again drove through the Dartmoor National Park. This is an amazing park with wild horses and sheep roaming the moors. A number of times we had to stop for horses and sheep on the road totally unperturbed by the cars and motorcycles.

Bailea Coach House …. We arrived in Brecon around 3:00 PM after stopping at Raglan on the way for a drink in the local pub. We were met at the door of our cottage for the week by our host Marjorie who showed us around a beautiful and very large cottage which is located on a farm just out of Brecon. It was a 16th century coach house and is traditional and superb.

Brecon Beacons National Park…. The next day we decided a walk in the Brecon Beacons National Park was in order and took off along narrow lanes to reach the start of our walk on the Mynydd Illud Common. The 3 mile walk climbed steadily until we were at one of the highest points with spectacular 360 degree views over the entire Brecon region. The landscape here is just amazing, patchwork coloured fields, farm properties, sheep and towns spread out in front of us.

Caves & Mountain Passes…. We ventured further afield Monday. Our first stop was The National Showcaves Centre for Wales, or in Welsh, Dan-Yr-Ogof. After paying our entry fee we walked into the centre only to be attacked by huge dinosaurs. We had walked back into the Jurassic period. These creatures were very realistic and beautifully maintained.
You could be standing next to one and all of a sudden it roared and started to move. Liz was petrified (maybe she would call it a “little scared”) but I shielded her and beat them off with my bare hands. She was so proud of me!

Into The Caves…. We then ventured into the caves which had displays of times past and floodlit highlights of just the natural beauty of the cave system. In many places there were waterfalls, small ponds and running streams with stalagmites and stalactites. The Cathedral Cave has a small altar deep within the cave for weddings and it is where the Welsh Boys Choir have sung. In all we spent three hours in the cave complexes which we really enjoyed.

Black Mountain Pass…. After a lunch stop it was on to the Black Mountain Pass. This is described as one of the best driving roads in Wales and was made famous by Jeremy Clarkson of Top Gear fame as they tested many supercars along this stretch of road. The landscape is barren with sheep and their lambs scattered high into the mountains as they are free to graze. Apparently, the farmers use sheep dogs to gather them in for sheering or slaughter. At the top of the pass there is the remains of old limestone mines and kilns. We then wandered back through small villages and farms to our cottage.

We Hit the Rails and the Booze…. We woke next morning to perfect weather so decided to take the Brecon Mountain Railway tourist train at Merthyr Tydfil. This train takes you into the Brecon Beacons National Park and alongside the Taf Fechan Reservoir. A scenic and relaxing journey with a stop along the way to take morning tea overlooking the reservoir.

Following the scenic train we were lucky enough to find this remote pub and were served a delightful lunch before heading to the Penderyn Distillery where they produce Welsh whisky, gin, vodka and a cream liqueur. The tour included a tasting of several whiskies which were very smooth and easy to drink straight. It was then a slow and careful drive back to our cottage.

A Day In Brecon…. Brecon is the largest town in the Brecon Beacons National Park so we decided a day exploring the town would be worthwhile. We visited the Brecon Cathedral, wandered the narrow streets of the small town, looked in a few of the shops and then had lunch.

It was then off for a narrowboat cruise on the Dragonfly Cruiseboat along the Brecon Canal. This 2½ hour cruise winds its way through the Brecon countryside and must go through one lock before turning around and returning to Brecon. This was our first experience in a lock which dropped the narrowboat 12 feet. Rob was lucky enough to be standing on the stern with the captain during our passage through the lock.

Hay-On-Wye – Town of Books…. Thursday we hit the road again to Hay-On-Wye, known as the “Town of Books”. There are over 20 bookshops in this small town. We were lucky enough to arrive on market day, so the streets were alive with stalls selling homemade goodies, home grown vegies, the biggest pork sausage rolls etc. and all kinds on memorabilia. In addition, it was the first day of the Hay-On-Wye Book Festival which takes place just outside of the town. A huge marque complex is set up with lecture theatres, book stalls, restaurants and cafes. People from all over UK come to this event which runs for 10 days.

Gospel Pass…. We left Hay-On-Wye and decided to take on the challenge of the Gospel Pass. At the peak this is the highest road in Wales. It is just a narrow single lane road? which winds through farm properties before rising into the Brecon Beacons National Park in the Black Mountain range. From the edge of the road there are sheer drops down into the valley. At the top of the pass the views over the countryside are spectacular and again sheep and ponies can wander anywhere.

National Botanical Gardens of Wales…. On our last day in this beautiful part of Wales, we decided to visit the Botanical Gardens of Wales. It was worth a visit to see so many different plants and flowers from different parts of the world including Western Australia. The butterfly house showcased beautiful butterflies, the double walled garden and The Great Glass House. The Apothecary Hall was interesting showing what plants over the centuries have been used in medicine to treat a variety of ailments.

Home Via the Black Mountain Pass…. It was then home via the Black Mountain Pass at times in drizzling rain which made it so different than our trip a few days earlier in bright sunny weather. The colours changed slightly but the sheep didn’t notice anything different and just kept eating.

Tomorrow we head north to Caernarfon, a trip of 140 miles.

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