We Head South To Kyushu

Back On The Shinkansen ….   From Sendai we hopped back on the Shinkansen for the 1400 km trip to Hakata on the island of Kyushu.  This trip took just over 7 hours with two changes of trains so the average speed was nearly 200 km/hr including stopping at stations and two changes of trains.  Top speed of the Shinkansen is 300 km/hr. It is interesting to see the changing architecture to more traditional houses the further south we headed and the changing landscape from housing, rice paddies and factories to mountains and and oh so many tunnels.

Paddy fields
Rice paddy fields from the Shinkansen

We Can Finally Unpack ….   We booked an AirBNB in Fukuoka for 9 nights so we could finally unpack. This is our base to explore Kyushu with day trips as well as exploring the local area.  Our apartment is centrally located in Fukuoka so we can easily walk to many of the major attractions.  We stocked up on basic supplies at a local supermarket.  Always an adventure as it is all in Japanese but had lots of fun translating into English.  Thank goodness for Google Translate.   Cannot find tonic water in any supermarket but they all sell gin.  How strange.  

Dazaifu
Main street Of Dazaifu – Lots of Tourist shops

Our First Full Day ….  We awoke to a perfect weather day so took off early by train to a small village 20 km from our apartment called Dazaifu. It is a tourist town with traditional villas, museums, temples,  many gift shops and even an amusement park for children.  The town was established in the 7-8th century and holds a lot of history.  

Dazaifu
The beautiful gardens in Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine

Dazaifu Main Shrine
Dazaifu Tenmangu Main Shrine
A Canal Tour ….   From there we hopped on another train a further 60 km south to the township of Yanagawa.    This town is know for its canals and so we took a canal punting tour for 70 minutes.  Very relaxing and fun as the elderly punt operator insisted in singing under every bridge and made everyone on the punt join in.  This elderly punt operator does three round trips each day. 

Canal punt tour in Yanagawa
Canal punt tour in Yanagawa – Yes that is Liz on the right
Stopping for refreshments
Stopping for refreshments during the canal tour in Yanagawa

Nagasaki And The Peace Park ….  Another early start by train to Nagasaki to visit the Peace Park, the atomic bomb hypocenter and the Museum.  On the train we met this lovely young Japanese lad who works in Osaka and was visiting his Grandma.  He insisted on accompanying us for the day which was very nice of him. 

Statue in Peace Park
Peace Statue in the Peace Park. Right hand points skywards to the threat of nuclear weapons, the left hand asks for eternal peace

The visit to the Peace Park turned out to be a very moving experience as we met a survivor of the atomic bomb blast named Mr Inosuke Hayasaki.  He was 1 km from the hypocenter of the blast and was blown behind a large concrete pillar which protected him from the heat ray and blast.  Only 2 out of 32 workers in the Mitsubishi Arms factory survived.

Survivor of the atomic bomb blast
Liz meeting a survivor of the atomic bomb blast, Mr Inosuke Hayasaki.

We also had the opportunity to speak to another survivor who spoke very complimentary of the Americans who within 10 days of the blast came in with food, drinks and medical aid to support the survivors. 

Nagasaki Atomic Bomb
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb replica – Nicknamed “Fat Man”

Atomic Bomb Museum ….   The next 1 1/2 hours was spent in the Museum looking at ruins from the blast, learning about the bomb and looking at many exhibits related to this devastating event.  I had the opportunity to speak with a couple of Japanese tourists at the Museum who admitted they were worried about North Korea and Kim Jong Un.

Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

Up The Ropeway ….  In Japan cable cars are called ropeways and we always take the opportunity to use these in cities we visit.  Nagasaki Ropeway travels 1 km up the side of Mt Inasa to a height of 333 metres and at the top has a 3 story observatory offering 360 degree views of the city.  With clear blue sky and 25 oC it was a perfect day for this visit.

Mt Inasa Observatory
View from the Mt Inasa Observatory

A Day In Fukuoka ….  We awoke the next morning to rain as Japan experienced a tropical storm off the east coast.  Fukuoka was on the fringe of this storm so rain but no wind.  As a result, a day in Fukuoka was in order,  so we visited the Kawabata Shopping St and then on to Canal City, a massive shopping center right opposite our apartment. 

Kawabata Shopping St
Kawabata Shopping Street – Perfect on a wet day

Halloween – A Big Deal In Japan ….    During our time at Canal City there was lots of activities related to Halloween. Displays in nearly every shop, face painting, dress up competitions and Halloween related entertainment. 

Halloween In Canal City
Halloween celebrations in Canal City Shopping Centre

Late Lunch or Early Dinner ….  We then took the opportunity to have a traditional Japanese lunch called Katsu Curry.  On entering the restaurant you order via a vending machine where you make your lunch selections, pay and then take tickets to give to the waiter.  A very efficient system. 

Katsu Curry
Katsu Curry for lunch at Canal City

Sunday, A Day Of Rest ….   After a hectic 10 days we decided that Sunday would be a day of rest, well nearly.  We went to Hakata Station to book Shinkansen Tickets for tomorrow to go to Kagoshima for the day, a city at the southern end of Kyushu. We then went by train for a 3 minutes ride to Takeshita to visit the Asahi Brewing Company for their free tour of the factory,  and of course the complimentary beer tasting. 

Asahi Brewery in Hakata
The Asahi Brewery in Hakata – All stainless steel and no entry without special clothing and decontamination

This turned out to be a great experience.  The brewery is amazing and spotlessly clean with nearly all areas of the brewery made of stainless steel. The workers have to change clothing and go through decontamination before entering.   The beer tasting turned out to be a highlight.  Four different beers and full size 250 ml glasses.  Everyone on the tour was very happy by the end of the tour.  We may even go back next week for another tour. 

Asahi Brewery
Enjoying the tasting experience at Asahi Brewery
Asahi Brewery
Our guide demonstrating how to correctly poor a beer into a glass

We are now 5 days into our stay in Fukuoka.  From now on we venture further afield on the island of Kyushu.

Tokyo to Sendai – Memorable & Eventful

Japan – Here We Come ….   Our flight to Narita was uneventful, hopped on the Skyliner fast train to Ueno, a short walk in light rain and we were in our hotel.  Next morning up early and into Tokyo Station to organise our Japan Rail Passes.  The same girl booked all our planned rail journeys.  This country is unbelievably efficient.

Uenoonshi Park
Taking in the scenery at Uenoonshi Park

 

It was then back to Ueno, 10 minutes by rail from Tokyo Station.  We spent the day visiting the Uenoonshi Park, walked the Ameyoko Market and exploring Ueno. This is a great area of Tokyo and the market has some real bargains which we resisted, not wanting to lug them all over Japan.

Ameyoko Market
Ameyoko Market near Ueno Station

Off To Aomori …  Next day, up early to catch the bullet train (Shinkansen) for the 700 km, 3 1/2 hour journey to Aomori.  Hopped on a local bus and checked into our hotel.  We then walked the town to get our bearings and plan our next full day. Aomori is a modern town with wide streets and a number of tourist attractions. They even laid on entertainment for our arrival.  How thoughtful.

Sunday entertainment
Sunday entertainment for the locals and visitors
New friends
Liz makes some new friends

Just Amazing ….    Our first stop the next day was the Nebuta Museum. This museum features floats from the Nebuta Festival which is highlighted by a procession featuring 20 large floats, each measuring about 10 metres square and 5 metres high which are specifically made each year for the festival which takes place in early August.

Nebuta Museum
One of the spectacular floats at the Nebuta Museum
Nebuta Museum
Nebuta Museum


Another Museum – Different This Time ….   Our next stop was the Hakkoda-maru Seikan Ferry Memorial Ship.  This is a floating museum which highlights the history of the Seikan Ferry Company which commenced in 1908 and operated for 80 years. Many of the vessels were destroyed and sunk by enemy air raids during the second World War II.  The last ferry, shown below ceased operation in 1988 and was converted to a museum.

Hakkoda-maru Seikan Ferry Museum
Hakkoda-maru Seikan Ferry Museum
Ferry Museum
One of the dioramas in the Ferry Museum

Back In Time 4000 years ….  After the ferry museum it was out of town 7 km by bus to the Sannai-Maruyama historical site which dates back 4000 to 5500 years ago.  Archaeologists have been excavating this site for many years and have reconstructed many of the dwellings based on their findings.  There are a number of Pit Houses, Elevated Houses and Community Meeting places which have been reconstructed.

Sannai-Maruyama
Sannai-Maruyama Historical Site
Pit House
Inspecting a Pit House. Floor is about 1.5 metres below ground level.

A Bit Of Culture ….  Our final stop for the day was just across the road at the Aomori Art Gallery.  This massive building holds the Aomori collection of local and international artists.

Aomori Art Gallery
Aomori Art Gallery
White Dog
Aomori Art Gallery – One of the exhibits.


Shirakami Resort Train …. This train leaves from Aomori and works it’s way to the west coast through farming and small communities until it reaches the coast.  It then travels along the coastline for around 50 km very close to the ocean.  This turned out to be an adventurous journey as Japan was hit by a typhoon which we ended up right on the edge of.  The sea was ferocious and people that disembarked from the train to take photos had their umbrellas blown inside out and came back onto the train soaking wet.  Hardy people these Japanese.

Typhoon
Train stop to take photos in the middle of a typhoon

 

We arrived in Akita around 2:00 PM and was kindly escorted to our hotel through a maze of shops and department stores by an elderly station attendant.  Could you imagine this happening in Melbourne. Not likely.

Shinkansen
View from the Shinkansen on the way to Sendai

Back On The Shinkansen ….  We left early the next morning for the 2 1/2 hour bullet train journey to Sendai.   This turned out to be another highlight as the typhoon had passed and it was a mild and sunny day with almost no wind.  What a contrast to the day before.  The autumn colours of the trees, flowing rivers, small villages and acres of rice paddy fields made for an interesting journey.  We arrived in Sendai just after 9:30 AM, dropped of our suit cases at the hotel, a 2 minute walk from the station, and then spent an hour familiarizing ourselves with Sendai downtown area.

Sendai
Tree lined boulevard in Sendai

A Harbour Cruise ….   It was then back on another train for 45 minutes to a town called Matsushima, a holiday resort style town.  On arrival we spent an enjoyable hour on a sightseeing cruise around the bay area which is really beautiful as it has dozens of small islands scattered through the bay each with a fascinating story.  These small islands helped break the full force of the tsunami back in 2011 so there was minimal damage to the town and the marine craft in the area. On our return to shore we walked the town then back on the train to Sendai.

Matsushima Bay
Islands in Matsushima Bay

Sendai ….  Aomori could well be described as a rural city but Sendai is a large beautiful metropolis. It has wide tree lined streets, an abundance of department stores and very long covered arcades.  It is certainly a city that we would look to come back to if we visit Japan again.

Ichibancho Arcade
Ichibancho Arcade in Sendai
Sendai
Colourful restaurant in one of the back streets of Sendai.

And Now We Head South ….  After 6 days in the north of Honshu we head south to the island of Kyushu for 10 days.

The Final Leg Of Our Trip – Stockholm

A Week In Stockholm Video – ‘Click Here’

In The Air Again….  A short airline flight from Bergen to Stockholm, jump on the Arlanda Express Train to the city, then a short subway ride to our apartment in Sodermalm. As luck, or good planning, would have it the entrance to our apartment was 5 meters from the subway entrance.  We unpacked and did some exploring of the local area which has everything we need.  Shops, pubs, restaurants and easy public transport.

Our apartment in Stockholm
View from our balcony in Stockholm

Our First Full Day…..  Our first stop was back to Central Station to book rail tickets for two journeys out of Stockholm, one to Gavle and Uppsala, and the other to Gothenburg on the Swedish west coast.  We then caught the Metro and a Tram to the Vasa Museum.  On 10 August 1628 the ship Vasa set sail on her maiden voyage and sank in Stockholm Harbour after sailing 1300 meters.   The wreck was salvaged in 1961 after 333 years under the sea.  The reconstructed vessel is 98% original and is adorned with hundreds of carved sculptures.

The magnificent ship Vasa – Launched 1638
Carvings on the Vasa

Nothing can prepare you for the scale and grandeur of this ship.  This is a wooden ship that weighs 1210 tonnes, is 69 meters long and 53 meters tall and was built between 1626 and 1628. The exhibition is on 7 floors which take you from the bottom of the hull to the top deck.  Above that is still the first section of the mast.  The next two sections of the mast are displayed outside the Museum extending from the roof. We spent a total of 4 hours in the Museum and probably still missed part of the exhibition. This is claimed to be the most visited museum in Europe.

A 1/10 scale model of the Vasa in full sail

On The Ferry….  We then jumped on the ferry across to Gamla Stan.  This is the old town of Stockholm dating back to the 13th century, and consists of medieval alley ways, cobbled streets and archaic architecture.  Gamla Stan has what is claimed to be the narrowest street in Stockholm, Marten Trotzigs Grand which has 36 steps leading down to the narrowest part which is 35 inches wide.

The narrowest street in Stockholm
Stortorget in Gamla Stan – The oldest square in Stockholm

Another Day Making Tracks….  For our second day in Stockholm we again made use of our Eurail pass and went to Gavle and then down to Uppsala.  In Gavle we did the city walk which takes about 1 1/2 hours which took us through the old town, across the rivers Gavlean and Testeboan, through their beautiful parkland and then back into the downtown precinct. 

Old Town in Gavle – A residential area with no gift shops.
Boulognerskogen City Park in Gavle

Back on the train to Uppsala, a university town with a beautiful Cathedral which is grand in scale and dates back to the late 13th century.  It is the tallest church in the Nordic Countries at a height of 119 meters.  Uppsala is a vibrant city with lots of young people and has a very different feel to Gavle.  It has some beautiful old buildings particularly around the university precinct.  

Uppsala Cathedral – A truely magnificent building
Inside the Uppsala Cathedral

A Day On The Ferry…..  On our third day we jumped on a ferry to see some of Stockholm from the water and traveled to Vaxholm known as the gateway to Roslagen because it is a hub for travel to most of the islands in the Swedish Archipelago. We walked the small town, had a nice lunch in a local restaurant and then rather than take the ferry back to Stockholm jumped on a local bus to see some of the countryside.  Bridges connect many of the small islands making this journey possible.

Woxham Hotel in Voxham
Voxham Fortress

And Yet Another Ferry…..  Saturday turned out to be a beautiful Autumn day so another one hour ferry trip to Drottningholm Palace on Lake Malaren where the Swedish Royal Family live. Part of the Palace is open to the public and for a small fee you can have a self guided tour of the main staircase and many of the rooms within the lower two floors of the Palace.  

Drottningholm Palace – Home of the Swedish Royal Family
Drottningholm Palace main staircase – A marble masterpiece
Drottningholm Palace Gardens

Back on the ferry to Stockholm and then immediately on another ferry to Norreport Malarstrand to walk along the foreshore to see the display of boats of the Stockholm Ship Association. Some of these vessels date back to the mid 1800’s with most being built in the 1900’s particularly during WWII.  This is almost an outdoor museum of boats and was an unexpected highlight of our day as we had not set out to find this display but purely tripped over it by accident.

Stockholm Ship Association display of historic vessels – They are home to some people

We then walked back to our bus stop via City Hall to see the many brides and grooms having their photos taken after the ceremonies at City Hall Registry Office.

The magnificent Stockholm City Hall
Weddings at the City Hall Registry Office

A Day Trip To Gothenburg…..  We decided to see more of the Swedish countryside so took a day trip to Gothenburg on the west coast of Sweden.   The train journey took 2 1/2 hours in a very comfortable high speed train.  This was one of the longest passenger trains we have ever seen.   16 carriages long and four locomotives to pull the train at 200 kph.   We arrived in Gothenburg, orientated ourselves and walked around the city for a couple of hours before jumping back on the train back to Stockholm. Trains in Europe are a very relaxing way to travel particularly in first class.

Gustav II Adolph – A great military commander
The sailing vessel Viking – Very majestic

Our Final Day…..  For our final full day in Stockholm we decided to visit the Fotografiska Museum (Photographic Museum) which turned out to be really interesting, particularly the works of Anton Corbijn a photographer renowned for taking photos of pop stars.  His black and white photos were outstanding.

Fotografiska Museum – The Rolling Stones photos by Anton Corbijn

After spending 2 hours in the Museum we went to the top floor restaurant for lunch and wow!!!  The views from this restaurant are amazing and on a sunny day made each large window look like a photo.  This is a must if you are visiting Stockholm and it is a sunny day.

View from the Fotografiska Museum restaurant windows

We Say Goodbye…..  From the Museum we walked around to the ferry terminal for a our final goodbye to Stockholm from the water.

Goodbye to Stockholm

.